Clothes Get Dressed Kids Clip Art Icon Public Domain
Wearing apparel in the Elizabethan era (1558-1603 CE) became much more than colourful, elaborate, and flamboyant than in previous periods. With Elizabeth I of England (r. 1558-1603 CE) herself beingness a dedicated follower of way, so, also, her court and nobles followed suit. Article of clothing was an important indicator of status and then that those who could afford it were careful to wear the right colours, materials, and latest fashions from Continental Europe. Heavy brocade, stockings, tight-plumbing fixtures doublets, long billowing dresses embellished with pearls and jewels, knee-length trousers, stiff linen collars or ruffs, and feathered hats were all staple elements of the wardrobes of the well off. The commoners, meanwhile, attempted to follow the new designs every bit all-time they could using cheaper materials, but those who tried to apparel across their station had to beware the authorities did non fine them and confiscate the offending item.
The Historical Record
Reconstructing what exactly people wore and when has its problems. Cloth, of course, is not a very practiced survivor at the best of times. At that place are a few rare surviving examples such as a woollen shirt and breeches fix belonging to a man who died after falling into a peat bog on the Isle of Shetland. However, these are few and far between. In addition to the ravages of time, the Elizabethans typically repaired and then cut and reused their apparel to get the longest life from them. The shabbiest clothes would and so take been used as rags. Consequently, our knowledge of Elizabethan mode often comes from secondhand sources such as written descriptions, sumptuary laws, and representations in art.
George Clifford, Earl of Cumberland
As the Elizabethan period wore on, regions like East Anglia & Kent saw the arrival of immigrants (especially Dutch & Italians) with fabric-manufacturing skills.
The Textile Trade
The increasing population of England in the 16th century CE stimulated a corresponding growth in the cloth and clothing industries. Wool was the principal material and there were four sheep for every person in England in the 1550s CE. At the aforementioned time, an increased contact with northern Europe saw new ideas and fashions spread, creating a demand for brighter colours and lighter materials. Unworked and undyed cloth was England's most important export, especially to Antwerp. However, inflation and disruptions to international trade acquired past the Anglo-Castilian war led to a decline in the second half of the 16th century CE.
The industry of article of clothing for the domestic market became more sophisticated with a greater use of small machines to help in some stages of the process. These included the Dutch loom and stocking-frame knitting motorcar. The once staple wool, felt, and worsted clothing was now supplemented with lighter fabrics - specially cotton, linen, fustian (cotton and linen), and sometimes silk - while even the traditional materials became finer in quality and texture. Yarnspinners, weavers and dyers all worked independently and unremarkably in their ain homes. There were, as yet, no factories, even if workers were semi-professionals and many diverse households might produce for a single large-scale dealer, known as a clothier.
Elizabeth I Fleet Portrait
The Welsh borders, Gloucestershire, Wiltshire and Hampshire had long-enjoyed a reputation equally the all-time places for English fabric manufacture. As the Elizabethan menses wore on, regions similar Due east Anglia and Kent saw the arrival of immigrants (particularly Dutch and Italians) with cloth-manufacturing skills, which greatly increased the quality of local production. Hybrid fabrics lighter than the traditional English ones were produced which created new demand and, because they wore out quicker, increased sales in the longterm. The new varieties of cloth or 'new draperies' went under many names such as bays, says, serges, perpetuanas, shaloons, and grosgraines.
The Aristocracy
Men'south Clothes
For men, linen underclothes (shirt and long shorts) were often embroidered and given lace decoration. Outer article of clothing was fabricated of all the materials mentioned above. Additional options worn simply past the elite because of their expense included velvet, damask (an elaborately woven textile of diverse material), and silk. Trousers were knee-length ('Venetian breeches') or thigh-length (trunkhose), and were oftentimes billowed out over the upper thighs and hips; later versions had pockets. Trousers frequently featured a codpiece which was a padded covering of the crotch. Sometimes of impressive proportions (but less so than during Henry VIII of England's reign, 1509-1547 CE), the codpiece could be unbuttoned or untied separately from the trousers when required. Past the end of the century, they were replaced past the push or tied wing.
The most common upper garment for men was the doublet, a short, stiff, tight-plumbing equipment jacket which was fabricated of wool, leather, or thick material. Just as today, minor changes became a sign of mode such equally the lower hem of the doublet, which started off straight but then developed into a deep V-form pointing down at the front end. A curiosity of some doublets was the peascod - actress padding over the abdomen to imitate armour but which ended up making the wearer look as if he was strutting like a peacock. Such padding, known as 'bombast', consisted of wool, cotton or horsehair and was used in other areas to create fashionable shapes to outer article of clothing. Detachable collars and cuffs were highly fashionable besides and were made from stiffened linen or lace. Equally the century wore on the ruffs became ever-more outlandish and required wire supports.
Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester
The doublet might accept sleeves which could be detachable and it was closed using hooks, laces, or buttons. The shoulders could accept wings and decorative tabs hanging at the waist known as 'pickadills'. On height of a doublet in colder weather, a man might article of clothing a jerkin waistcoat and on top of that a coat which could exist of whatsoever length, cut, and material. Cloaks and semi-circular capes were also worn. Trousers and upper garments were often slashed vertically in places so that underclothing or a lighter lining fabric could bulge through the gaps in a decorative mode.
Some dyes were expensive to produce such as cherry & blackness & so these were another indication of wealth & status.
Leather was popular for some outer garments, belts, gloves, hats, and shoes. Leather was sometimes made more than decorative past tooling information technology. Shoes for men were typically square-toed and without a noticeable heel. Earlier types of footwear were skid-on, only laces and buckles came into fashion past the terminate of Elizabeth'southward reign. Courtiers often wore fancy slipper-like shoes made from silk or velvet. Leather boots were worn when riding.
Colours often contrasted in the same outfit. All colours came from natural dyes and then the most common for the elite were red, blue, yellow, dark-green, grey, and dark-brown. As natural dyes tend to fade relatively quickly (although outer dress were rarely done at all but were merely brushed), wearing the brightest colours clearly showed one had the newest of apparel. Some dyes were expensive to produce such as crimson and blackness and and then these were another indication of wealth and status. Buttons, typically small-scale in size simply large in number, were a like badge of wealth with the cheapest using wood, bone or horn and the more dazzling fabricated using gold, silver, or pewter. Similarly, instead of buttons a garment might be closed or joined to another by tying a ribbon through matching holes. These ribbons were known as 'points' and the ends could be decorated with pieces of metal. In the absence of pockets, both men and women wore belts or girdles from which were suspended purses, daggers, and rapiers for men, and mirrors, grooming kits, and fans for women.
Elizabethan Lady in Farthingale Dress.
Aloof women frequently wore long dresses which had not changed very much since the Heart Ages. The kirtle dress was fitted and very long so that the feet of the wearer were nearly subconscious. On meridian of this other garments were worn. Skirts were free-flowing early in Elizabeth's reign, but at that place then developed a fashion for rigid skirts in the shape of a bell or cylinder. These forms were created by a serial of hoops inside the cloth or in an undergarment. This latter construction was known as a wheeled farthingale and it had a padded roll around the waistline to button the exterior garment outwards then that the material of the dress then fell perpendicular.
An alternative to the kirtle was wearing a series of light skirts (petticoats) combined with a bodice which was unremarkably a strong garment made from wool and which emphasised a narrow waistline. Bodices gave back up to or even constricted the upper trunk. They were given rigidity by inserting thin pieces of whalebone, wood or metallic. Effectively bodices were closed using buttons or hooks. Sometimes a reinforcing piece of wood called a 'busk' was inserted at the forepart of the bodice and held in position using a ribbon in the centre of the chest (which survives to this twenty-four hours in some undergarments). The bodice could exist fastened at the front, side or back. As with the hemlines of men'due south waistcoats, the neckline of women'due south bodices varied in cut. In the mid-16th century CE, the cut was low, then rose over time and finally became depression-cut again by the stop of the century. Aloof women wore sleeves to their bodice if it were worn as an outer garment.
A third alternative was to wear a gown which was substantially a brim and bodice attached together and worn over undergarments. These were the most extravagant of the Elizabethan garments and were typically worn with false sleeves and decorated with pearls, jewels and gold brocade.
The Egerton Sisters
The Commoners
Commoners wore like wearing apparel to the aristocracy just fabricated forth much simpler lines and with cheaper materials. Workers apparently did non wear restrictive clothing when doing their daily tasks. Materials such every bit cheaper linen, linen canvas, hemp canvas, and lockram (from coarse hemp) were all used for everyday working wearing apparel that needed to be durable to article of clothing and weather. For this reason, hems were sometimes fabricated of more durable fabric so that they could take the extra wear and tear and be easily replaced if necessary to give the garment a longer life. Aprons of thick textile or leather were worn to protect wearing apparel, besides. For a special outfit, an affordable luxury was satin (about ten times cheaper than damask). Equally some dyes were expensive, greyness and dark-brown shades were the almost mutual colours in the clothing of the poorer classes.
Travelling salesmen and local mercers would have sold simple clothes like stockings and underclothes. For more elaborate outerwear, a specialised tailor or seamstress would take made the clothes on demand. Hose or loose-plumbing equipment stockings remained popular with men, although fashionable aristocrats would have preferred trunkhose. Shorter stockings tied with a garter and ribbon at the articulatio genus were popular with all classes. Lower class women sometimes wore sleeveless bodices and fastened them using laces, something upper-course women did not do. A wool or linen cap or apartment hat was commonly worn, even indoors. Hats for the rich were sometimes made with fur (especially beaver) while commoners might use straw, felt, or leather. Shoes were every bit mentioned above but workers sometimes wore talocrural joint-boots made of leather.
Silk, ribbons, and lace were luxury items just could be easily added in moderation to even plain wearing apparel to make them more than attractive. This was particularly and so equally the English followed the fashion trends set by the French and Italians whose upper classes favoured more ostentatious clothing. The trend for elaborate decoration then trickled down to all classes.
Decision-making Fashion
Elizabeth was the last monarch to impose sumptuary laws (notably in 1559 and 1597 CE) to adjourn extravagant spending on wear and ensure the elite remained the only ones with the finest clothes. There was 18-carat business concern that young men, in detail, outspent their inheritances in trying to keep up with the fashions set by the richer members of society. Consequently, there were strict rules on who could wearable certain types of clothes, certain materials, and certain colours. At that place were other reasons to limit dress such as the religious views of Protestantism that called for more than austere wearable, and the fact that effectively and more dazzling dress typically came from away and so hurt the sales of plainer domicile production.
Examples of restrictions included only earls or higher ranks existence able to habiliment aureate cloth. Only royalty could wear purple and simply peers and their relations could vesture wool garments made away. Servants of anyone lower than a admirer could not wear fur of any kind, and commoners were banned from wearing stockings fabricated from textile costing more than a certain price per one thousand. Anyone caught breaking these sumptuary laws risked various degrees of fines and having the wear confiscated. The fact that such fines were in place illustrates, though, that many Elizabethans of all classes were willing to pay any price to wear the finest fashions of the day.
This article has been reviewed for accurateness, reliability and adherence to academic standards prior to publication.
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Source: https://www.worldhistory.org/article/1577/clothes-in-the-elizabethan-era/
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